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LINSEED OIL
Linseed oil is made from the seed of the flax plant. During its early history, linseed oil had a different role then it has today. Originally it was used as a final varnish for paintings that were created using the egg tempera medium. Linseed oil is used as binder in today's oil paints. Linseed oil dries thoroughly and forms a strong paint film. Because linseed oil dries slowly, the paint remains in a workable state, enabling the artist to continue working on the painting for some time. When linseed oil ages, it does tend to yellow unfortunately. Many painters avoid using linseed oil with lighter colors like whites and yellows. Below are a few varieties of linseed oils that are available to today's oil painters.
COLD PRESSED LINSEED OIL
Cold pressed linseed oil is made by extracting the oils from the raw flaxseed. The oil is extracted by using pressure and not heat, thereby creating a linseed oil in its purist form. Cold pressed linseed oil can be used as a binder in oil paints, but can also be used as a medium to thin oil paints, heighten gloss and transparency, and reduce the visibility of brush strokes. Many painters and manufacturers alike feel cold pressed linseed oil is superior in quality to other linseed oils because there is no refinement made to the oil. Cold pressed linseed oil results in a low yield, so this oil does carry a heftier price tag.
STEAM PRESSED OR REFINED LINSEED OIL
When the flaxseed is steam heated and then pressed it yields more oil, thereby making refined linseed oil a more affordable medium for artists and for use as a binder in oil paints. The process of steam heating the flax seeds produces more waste, so this waste has to be removed through a refinement process. The oil is treated with an acid which removes the waste materials. The acid is then neutralized with an alkali solution. Refined linseed oil can be used to thin oil paint and increase brilliance and transparency.
SUN THICKENED LINSEED OIL
Sun thickened linseed oil is a thick bodied medium that is produced using the heat of the sun. An equal amount of both linseed oil and water are mixed together in a container and left in sunlight for several weeks or longer. The water and linseed oil eventually separate resulting in a thicker oil with a honey like consistency. Sun thickened linseed oil is not used as a binder in oil paints but as an independent medium that improves flow and increases gloss. Sun thickened linseed oil has less of a tendency to yellow and speeds drying.
STAND OIL
Stand oil is also a thick bodied medium like sun thickened linseed oil. Linseed oil is heated at a high steady temperature, in an air tight container, which results in a very thick honey like consistency. Stand oil is useful as a glazing medium when mixed with turpentine and damar varnish. Stand oil helps improve the flow and has good resistance to yellowing. Stand oil is a slow drying medium that produces a strong enamel like paint film.
POPPY SEED OIL
Because linseed oil has a tendency to yellow as it ages, other oils have come onto the market. Amongst these oils are poppy seed and safflower oil. Poppy seed oil is extracted from the seeds of the opium poppy. Poppy seed oil is a pale slower drying oil and is less likely to yellow when compared with linseed oil. It is often used with whites, blues and pale colors.
SAFFLOWER OIL
Safflower oil is similar to poppy seed oil in that they both are suitable for whites and light colors. It has less of a tendency to yellow when compared to linseed oil.
WALNUT OIL
Walnut oil is a pale oil that helps make paint more fluid and has good drying power. It has less of a tendency to yellow when compared with linseed oil. Walnut oil has to be stored properly or it can spoil.
LIQUIN
Liquin is a popular oil painting medium. Many artists swear by it and it is definitely worth a try if you have never worked with it before. Liquin improves the flow of oil and alkyd colors and helps in subtle blending and fine detail. It speeds drying and serves as a good medium for glazing.
I hope this article has served as a good overview on oil painting mediums. Remember that working with oil painting mediums is not a requirement. If you are feeling adventurous then choose one medium at a time, experiment and have fun. Happy Painting!
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I started my own painting business back in 1991. As someone who had done painting off and on before I figured I knew all about how to paint. I was wrong.
So, exactly how much painting experience do you need to start a painting business of your own? Below are the top 10 things you should know to become a successful house painter.
1. You need to know important things like when and why to use primers.
Example: You cannot paint latex over alkyd (oil base) unless it was a "flat" sheen like wall paint. Otherwise you will get "peeling".
Neither can you paint new alkyd enamels over existing alkyd enamel finishes without priming first with an enamel under coater primer (whew!). Otherwise "chipping" will occur. A common error with older alkyd enamel woodwork.
2. You need a system for getting your prep work done fast.
Example: For example, when painting walls, I like to apply the first coat of paint before I do any basic drywall repairs of things like holes, stress cracks, loose tape seams, etc. That way you get to know the walls and the trouble areas show up easier because of the fresh paint.
3. You need to know the best time-saving techniques or speed tips to make the most money per job. Things as simple as having a fan available to quick-dry freshly painted walls and ceilings so you can get on with cutting in the second coat.
4. You want to test which paints are the best to use. Once I find my favorite products I stay with them because I know them well and how they perform. Also, I like to use name brand leaders like Benjamin Moore. Name brands that represent high quality to the homeowner. Cheap paint takes more effort and doesn't make your job look as good afterwards anyways.
5. You need to know how to do basic drywall or plaster repairs. Basic repairs like loose tape lines, fixing water damage, etc. When I fist started my painting business I didn't even know how to fix a hole in the wall caused by a doorknob (a common repair).
6. You need to know about stain blocking. Stains like water spots, ink spots, etc. that permeate through latex finishes. Ignoring stains causes bleed-thru. I use a simple spray product for interior spot priming that stops ink and other spots dead in their tracks. It's called "Krylon Fusion". It dries to touch in just a minute or two, even though it's solvent-based.
7. You need to know about hard to cover colors. Certain colors can require multiple coats to cover well and you need to know what you can use to tackle this and speed things up. And even how to charge extra for this also.
8. You need to know about staining and varnishing. Many painters cannot match stains properly. You can do it easily if you know just one simple trick. Staining and varnishing new windows or woodwork is easy once you have done it.
As a matter of fact, it's easier and more fun than painting the windows and can command higher profits because most people are afraid of staining. (Remember, everyone thinks they know how to paint right?, but staining is another story!)
9. You need to know effective advertising. A new painter cannot afford expensive advertising that doesn't always work well anyways. Placing a Yellow Pages ad can take 7 or 8 months to come out. You need fast, cheap, effective direct marketing secrets and alternative methods that get customers immediately like clockwork whenever you need them.
10. You need to know about estimating. Most new painters wind up eating their jobs and leave a lot of money on the table. Especially on exterior bids. When you know how to effectively estimate all your work you will make a lot of money as a painter, guaranteed.
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